Old School Training vs. New School Training - Which is Best?

          A client asked me a thought-provoking question the other day – what did I think of old-fashioned dog training compared to the newer methods.  I had to pause a moment and think about my answer.  “Old School” training involved a lot of correction-based work.  It is sometimes referred to as the “yank and jerk” method, but I think that’s a bit overstated.  “New School” training is much more positive and, in some schools of thought, it is 100% positive and reward based, without physical correction. 

 

          Old school trainers usually employed slip (choke) chain collars or pinch collars.  New school trainers use buckle collars, no-pull harnesses, and head halters.  Some old school trainers fall back on the theory of dominance, with the handler enforcing his or her will on the dog.  Refusals or objections from the dogs were sometimes very harshly corrected.  New school training makes the dog a partner in the process rather than relying on dominance.   

          We trainers who have been around since the dark ages started out with old school methods because that’s what we were taught.  It was effective, but could be hard on the dogs – especially young ones.  Some of us started using food treats because we found this helped dogs learn quickly and with less physical correction.  We rarely admitted to using food, though.  It was a real “no-no” at that time, and food trainers were looked down upon.  The opinion was that dogs trained with food would only work when food was present, and not out of respect for their trainers.  Somehow food trainers managed to get their dogs working well despite the criticism of their peers.  That was when training started to change for the better. 

          For most of my career I have used a blend of both training methods, but the older I get the more I’m sliding closer to the new school methods and farther from old school.  The newer methods are perfect for teaching puppies to respond to commands.  They learn their lessons happily and without fear, and they develop a love of working with their owners.  Using a lure-and-reward method of training is effective for older dogs as well.  It is so much easier for an old lady such as myself to teach a dog to lie down on command using a bit of food as a lure than it is to start wrestling match with the pooch.  I still rely on a few physical corrections when I feel they’re called for, but I use the more positive training methods as much as possible.   

          When my Airedale pup, Fergus, hit five months of age he became a bit of a smart-aleck.  He decided that he would no longer lie down on command unless I actually had a treat in my hand.  When that happened, I had the choice of physically forcing the issue (which I didn’t want to do with him) or trying something else.  I decided that he was going to learn some clicker training. 

 

          Clicker training is fun – the dog quickly learns that the sound of the click means that 1) he did the right thing, and 2) he’s going to get a treat.  The click marks the exact moment the dog did what you asked him to do.  Because he’s never punished or physically corrected for not doing what was asked, he’s not afraid to work.  And because he really, really, REALLY wants that treat, he’ll try his hardest to figure out what will get you to give it to him.  And it isn’t too difficult to wean a dog from expecting a treat for every little thing once he’s learned a skill.  Fergus responds well to this method, and I’ve used it for other behaviors as well.  To me the biggest challenge of this sort of training is the amount of patience required. 

          I probably will never completely abandon all of the old-school training methods, but I love that I can teach a dog without it being a battle of wills.  One of the saddest things you can see is a dog that is afraid to make a mistake.  It cripples the learning process.  Using more positive and dog-friendly training methods won’t do this.  It will produce a dog that is eager to work and eager to learn new things.

          We’re never too old (dogs or humans) to learn new things!

 

Dorothy Miner is a long-time dog obedience and tracking instructor, judge of canine events, and author.  She teaches weekly classes for the Allen Correctional Institution’s PETS Program and provides training and consultation under the banner of “Sidekicks” and “Training for Dogs and Their People.”

The Eruptible Bella St. Helens

                                                               

                                                                     

           
             As the PBS television series, "Downton Abbey", nears the end of its six- season run, I can't help but think back to another time spent vicariously in the same county of Yorkshire, England. In 1937, only eleven years after Downton's conclusion, my veterinary and literary hero, James Herriot, began practice there.

             I first read his "All Creatures Great and Small" series of books as a teenager, often before school, and almost always while flung back in my dad's favorite recliner. The images painted by his words as he described the beautiful English countryside, and the many colorful characters he encountered, both human and animal, were fuel to my fire to become a veterinarian like him. I so much wanted to be part of that world.   

            One of his patients was an overweight, overindulged Pekingese named Tricki Woo. Tricki was owned by a wealthy widow, Mrs. Pumphrey, herself a holdover from the Downton era. Together they lived in a large, fancy house with servants and the whole nine yards.

            Tricki often suffered from impacted anal glands, a condition Mrs. Pumphrey called "flop-bott." James repeatedly blamed this on Tricki's dietary lifestyle which consisted of everything except proper dog food. Many pages of the books were devoted to the fine line James traversed as he tried to be an advocate for Tricki's health, whilst not offending Mrs. Pumphrey, who was renowned for her generous hospitality during home visits. That, and the fact that Mrs. Pumphrey had once told him that Tricki referred to him as "Uncle Herriot."

            As a fledgling student, I didn't realize what an integral part of veterinary practice this balancing act  is. Seventy-five years and a new century later, that aspect of veterinary medicine really hasn't changed much.

            I, too, have a patient who experiences recurrent bouts of "flop-bott," although she is not nearly as overweight, nor as overindulged as Tricki. A delightful Maltese named Bella, she lives with a very nice family in Van Wert who love her dearly. I see her several times a year, usually accompanied by Susan and her son, Nicholas, for problems concerning Belle's skin, ears, and those aforementioned anal glands. This triad of ailments is characteristic of a dog with a food allergy.

            When Bella sticks to her special diet she does pretty well at keeping her symptoms at bay. It's the "sticking" part that's the problem, however.

            Like many food allergic dogs, Bella's Achilles heel is chicken. She has a weakness for it, and according to Susan, Bella's father has a weakness for giving it to her. Whenever she has a skin flare-up, I only have to mention the word "chicken" and Susan gives me a confessional sheepish look. Bella is awfully cute, though, and it would be difficult to deny her anything, including the dreaded chicken. But owners of food allergic pets must be steadfast and resolute. Do not look at those adorable, begging eyes. Put them in another room at mealtime if you must.

            A few months back, Bella developed a fairly large sebaceous cyst on her back. When it began to open and drain, Susan and Nicholas  brought her to be checked. As I entered the exam room and saw the lesion, which was not unlike a volcano spewing its contents, I exclaimed, "Oh my God! She looks like Mt. Vesuvius!"  Nicholas quickly added a much better moniker. "Bella St. Helens!"

            Instantly I became a little jealous. I always wanted a cool nickname like that. I think Bella kind of likes it, too. She is quite a character.

            Our chicken issue aside, working with Bella St. Helens and her family has provided some of my most cherished moments as a veterinarian. During a recent visit, Susan mentioned that while getting Bella ready for her appointment, she inadvertently told her she was going to see "Uncle John" instead of "Dr. John." And just like that, no time- travel machine necessary, I was back in Yorkshire with James and Tricki Woo, and all the wonderful memories from those magnificent books.

            Oh, I would have become a veterinarian with or without James Herriot, but without him I don't think I would have been able to fully appreciate my clients, and enjoy my patients as much as I have. I am honored to be your veterinarian, Bella. I must admit, though, I'm honored even more to be considered your uncle. Thank you, Susan, for the ultimate compliment.

 

By Dr. John H. Jones

Comprehend the Complexities of Cat Companionship

                                                                         

                                 I love cats. No two are alike and they are way more intelligent than most of us realize. It tickles me to watch cats outsmart those in their company, including veterinary professionals. After 30 years in practice, I am still fascinated by cat health and behavior.

                        Most cat owners are multiple cat owners because, like me, once you have  a feline family member, you become an addict of sorts.  This addiction readily intensifies and before you know it, you are at risk for becoming a "crazy cat person." To set the record straight, "Jobey" and "Diane" are the only two cats I own...well, the only two that live in our house (truer confession: we have had four house cats at a time).

                        The reality is that while some like to "collect" cats because of this addiction, cats are independent creatures that do not want to be congested in their territories. My observation of multiple cat households is that each additional cat beyond two exponentially increases the likelihood of behavioral problems among them. The second reality is the number one reason cats lose their happy homes is because of inappropriate elimination behaviors associated with this congestion.

                        To expound further, consider the ancestry of cats.  First domesticated as early as 4000 years ago by ancient Egyptians, plentiful rodent populations drew wild cats close to human communities. The killing skills of the Felis catus species quickly drew the affection and attention of early Egyptians who also worshipped a cat goddess and  mummified their beloved cats for their journey to the next world (along with mummified mice!).     Even historically, cats lived and worked independently, competing for food and territory...sharing was not an option.

                        So, why then, do we think cats would be happy living closely with several other Felis cati?  Many enjoy companionship, but not constant companionship, and most crave a "safe" space to call their own. Because many among us are cat lovers, I would like to share some do's and don'ts of  becoming a multiple cat household. 

"DO" adopt kittens in pairs after 7 weeks of age.  Siblings have already been bonded by nature. The kitten socialization period will continue through 12 weeks of age. Essentially, they are growing up and learning to be social together, during a critical period. 

"DO" adopt a younger cat or kitten for a companion for your young adult cat.  Back to that independent nature thing, cats become less adaptable the older they get so choose a companion early in your cat's life.  Kittens are also more adaptable to "playing by the older cat's rules" and will more readily submit to the pre-existing cat's "laws of the land."

"DO" consider choosing a male kitten to join a pre-existing older female cat's home.  A common observation in multiple cat homes is that female cats are less willing to share their territories at all, let alone with other adult female cats.  Inappropriate elimination behaviors may be more likely among female cats cohabitating.

"DON'T" expect your pre-existing cat to immediately like the "newbie." Seniority rules so introductions  need to be slow and gradual, for both parties involved.  Confine the newcomer to a small, safe area to grow acquainted to its new home, for days to weeks.  The senior cat in the household will become aware of the new resident via "under the door" communications and scents. Once acclimated to the sights and sounds of the new home, gradually give growing freedom to the new adoptee. Some growling and hissing will still be likely until the two cats establish an understanding of territory and safety.

"DON'T"  forget to increase the number of litter pans to one per cat plus one!  Litter pans need to be immaculate and inviting for all cats.  Scoop each pan at least once daily and dump and clean every pan weekly.  Avoid deodorizing cleaners/litters that stressed cats will avoid.  Cats prefer "au natural" when it comes to their toilets...litter pan deodorants are for humans, not cats!

 

                        As a connoisseur of cats myself, I do encourage cat owners to adopt cats in pairs so they are never alone when they are alone. But, consider this: cats LIKE to be alone. They just need things to do to occupy the average eight hours daily that they are awake. Give your Felis catus jobs! Make them work for their food by hiding it throughout the house or placing it in Egg-cersizer toys that drop kibble when rolled. Provide cat trees, climbing ladders with dangling toys (avoid strings!), cat walks, cat videos, window perches, cardboard box condos or paper bags. And, don't forget the cat hammock for the other 16 hours of the day!

                        Oh, to be a cat...

 

By Dr. Bonnie Jones